In season: herring in oatmeal with gooseberry compote and green salad

Passing by the fishmonger's yersterday, I noticed a wee brown paper sign announcing that it's Scottish herring season. Intending to buy a chunk of meaty white fish, monkfish probably, I changed my mind when I saw the seasonal tag. More eco-friendly. Plus it's so long since I ate a freshly cooked herring I found that I couldn't actually remember what they taste like. High time to get reacquainted I concluded.

Costing only 82p for a good-sized fillet, herring is cheap. And healthy. As an oily fish it's full of omega 3s, great for heart health amongst other things. And although herring stocks were almost depleted in the 60s, the imposition of stringent fishing quotas has seen them recover to a sustainable level. 

Thus, feeling very virtuous, I turned out of the shop. And promptly realised I didn't have a clue what to do with it. Casting my mind back to after-school dinners, I remembered that Mum and Dad always pan fried them in oatmeal. Served with new potatoes and sweet summer cabbage, because they were also at their seasonal best. But I've got to say it was never one of my favourites.

On arrival home from school my first utterance never varied. 'What's for tea Mum?' Said before I'd even crossed the three steps between back door and kitchen. My shoulders always sank a little when the reply was, 'Herrings in oatmeal.' If I was feeling grumpy - not untypical, friends left behind, dishes and homework looming - I retorted with a Harry Enfield Kev-style 'Tschuh, do we have to?!' Ungrateful, disconsolate teenager, me? Yes, I'm afraid so.

I can't quite put my finger on why herrings in oatmeal, tatties and veg routinely elicited that response. Not enough zip or tang to offset the fish is all I can come up with... Whatever it was, having been relegated to the dreary 'Scottish plain' category of my foodie memory bank, I haven't eaten them for nigh on 20 years. 

So, not convinced I'd made the right choice, I distractedly plodded my way up Byres Road towards the greengrocers, musing on how best to rescue this little fishy from mealtime ambivalence.

Then I spied some red gooseberries in the greengrocer's doorway. Lifting the plastic packet to my nose and sniffing through the vents, the distinctive bubble-gummy scent gave away their ripeness. A vision of blush compote leapt to mind and all reservations were instantly removed. It took several more sniff tests to find another punnet that smelled equally Bubbliciousy, but by then I was so full of anticipation I couldn't have cared less how odd I looked.

Having gotten to know each other again, I concede that herring in oatmeal would pair wonderfully with the soft and gentle flavours of boiled new potatoes and light green cabbage. A classic for a reason. Damn! My Dad's right again. But a reminder to all you diehard traditionalists out there, it's good to ring the changes. And with several weeks of the herring season to go (typically July to mid-September), there's time enough for both.

Ingredients

Aside from the compote (see note below) all quantities are given per person. Depending on how many you're cooking for, just multiply up as necessary.

Fish
1 boned herring, as big or as small as you'd like
a handful/20g of medium or coarse oatmeal, Golspie's (pictured below) has fantastic flavour and texture
a small knob of lard or pork back fat, or 1 teaspoon groundnut oil*
salt and freshly ground black pepper

*Animal fats heat to a higher temperature so will give a much crispier texture. However, lard comes in awfully big packets. If you don't use it regularly enough to warrant purchase, ask your butcher for a small lump of pork back fat. If you prefer to use vegetable oil, ground nut is the best option since it won't flavour the fish. Olive oil is not a good choice in this instance as its relatively strong flavour just doesn't go well, adding a peculiar and not entirely pleasant note.

Compote
450g gooseberries (white or redcurrants would do as well; blackcurrants may be a stretch too far)
15g/1 tablespoon golden sugar

You won't need anything like as much as this to serve with the fish, but since gooseberry punnets usually weigh a pound or half-pound, you might as well cook up the whole lot and enjoy the leftovers with yoghurt for breakfast or spooned over a rich vanilla or chocolate ice cream. 

Salad
40g fine green beans, topped but not tailed
20g spring onions, stems removed and any floppy bits trimmed from the top
20g tender spinach leaves, washed and dried
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon white wine or cider vinegar
freshly ground black pepper 

Herring, oatmeal, goosies; healthful Scottish fare at its summer best. All you need now is some rasps and cream to follow! 

Method

Start by preparing the compote. Rinse the berries in cool water, drain and lay out on a clean tea towel, then roll the towel gently to remove excess water. Transfer to a thick bottomed pan along with the sugar and cook on a low heat for 7 minutes or so until the berries have softened to a rough purée but not totally disintegrated. You want some larger pieces for texture. Shake the pan every now and then to prevent sticking. Check for sweetness and add more sugar if desired - they should be tart enough to cut through the oiliness of the fish but not so much so that you can't eat them without grimacing. The exact quantity of sugar required will depend on the natural sweetness of the berries and your own personal taste. Allow to cool.

To make the salad, mix the oil, vinegar and a good twist of freshly ground black pepper in a large bowl. Lightly steam the green beans and spring onions. Or pop them under the grill for a minute or so, just until they're heated through. Chop the beans in half across the diagonal and the onions into thirds. Toss with the spinach leaves whilst still warm.

Lastly, to prepare the fish, scatter a good handful of oatmeal over a good-sized dinner plate. Season the fillet and press it onto the oatmeal until both sides are well covered. Heat the fat in a frying pan over a medium-high heat until shimmering hot - don't go as far as smoking or it will taste burnt! Add the fish, flesh side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until crisp and golden brown. Flip over and cook on the other side for 1-2 minutes. Exact times will vary depending upon the size of the fish, so judge readiness by texture and colour of the oatmeal. Serve immediately with the salad and a generous dollop of compote.

And to drink?

Perfect with Henri Bourgeois' Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc. From the Sancerre region of the Loire by a fantastic Sancerre producer yet not a Sancerre, this is one of those wines where the winemaker breaks the restrictive appellation rules to create something more modern. Somewhere in style between the cool flintyness of a Sancerre and the lush, tropical fruits of a New Zealand Sauv, it really has got the best of both the Old and New Worlds. Full of bright, gooseberry fruit and blackcurrant leaf refreshingness. One of the most enjoyable examples of Sauv Blanc I've tried in a long time. Available in Glasgow from The Cave, £10.49 a bottle.

A light red would put an interesting spin on things. A red Sancerre perhaps. Made from Pinot Noir grapes, these are lighter in style than Burgundian reds due to the Loire region's cooler climate. Again, Henri Bourgeois does several good ones. As nice served very slightly chilled as they are at room temeprature.

And for those on the wagon, an elderflower cordial and soda? Or perhaps a glass of the slightly sparkling raspberry Bouvrage, 50% fresh Scottish rasps, sparkling water and the tiniest touch of raw cane sugar. Each drink echoing the respective fruit characters of the white and red wines above. 

Q&A: Why are Scottish herring in season over summer?

The Scottish herring season typically runs from July to mid-September. That's when herring are swimming in waters off the Scottish coasts, the Atlantic to the west and the North Sea to the north east. Having come to spawn, the longer the fish swim about, the skinnier they get. Which is why they're plumper and juicier at the start of the season. Average weights actually decline from month to month as they lose fat mass. And as they lose fat, so they lose plumpness and juicyness. Get eating soon!

Silver Darling

Comments

[have you been swimming with your siver darling]

The answer to that is -not likely. Where they travel in the ocean is too cold and deep..Gooseberry compote ---I must give it a try next time with silver darling along with Grace.Ingredients look superb in the pics . What was it Samuel Johnson said about oats-----The Scots eat what an Englishman feeds to his horse.